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不只一生一次的一同行走。




七月中,半年多來的曲折移動,於是我第一次在旅行途中大病。工作營的休息日大夥兒都去附近的國家公園騎駱駝去了,而我不爭氣的在烏蘭巴托的八人房裡睡睡醒醒的,對面的床位又搬進來幾個人,我也沒力氣打招呼。

那是男人第一次見到我的模樣:病懨懨的側身躺在床上,他說他看了我一眼,莫名的預感我將會是他的女孩。

我的第一眼卻是另種光景。傍晚時我費力的一個人去吃了飯,幾步路弄得高燒兩天的我氣喘吁吁,走進門後我才站定,「How are you?」轉頭,第一次看到男人和他熾熱的雙眼,而我實在太喘了,說了聲一點都不好,就找了藉口留下錯愕的他走回房間裡。

只是我沒有忘記他的眼睛。因為不管是那天晚上他跟我描述他在印度尼泊爾的旅行,還是他隔天早上告訴我,他喜歡我想再和我見一面的時候,他的眼睛始終很堅定的看著我。以至於他離開後的那段時間,我都相信我們真的還會再見上一面。


這兩年我獨自走過/飛行很多次,總會遇到些許人,大夥兒彼此承諾有天再見面,但是我們都知道,現實生活中的承諾都不易兌現,何況是萍水相逢的場面話,要如何實現?

男人出現在我幾年來最狼狽的一個晚上,是第一個在旅行中對我說喜歡我的人,(而他的這句喜歡妳好像有種魔力,因為後來的旅程裡有更多男孩說喜歡我。) 然後他遵守諾言,一個半月後從莫斯科到上海再見我一面。

我說我想在回家之前去一趟桂林,他說我們在一起可以去任何地方。


夜幕低垂,我們背起背包進入沒有人煙的山林間。我走在前頭,後面的燈光照著前方的小路,我踏著自個兒的影子前行,至於兩步之後的路完全看不見,左邊的漓江流水淙淙,而蟋蟀、青蛙、貓頭鷹、夏蟬的叫聲則在右耳骨膜間振動。

沿途的每一步,我都不猶豫。反正倘若不慎失足,後頭的男人必定會拉住我。

就像,走路的時候我也不知道我到底要走去哪,但我知道身後的男人知道方向,那就夠了其實。就安心了。


男人兩邊肩膀上各有塊突起的骨頭,每次問他,他都會開玩笑的說,那是因為他有一雙翅膀。每次他這樣說時,我會歪著頭看他帶笑的眼睛,想像他飛翔的姿態。後來他說那是天生的,他也不知道為什麼,但當他背起十八公斤的背包時,這兩塊突起的骨頭能夠防止背帶滑落呢。我想這大概又是一個玩笑話,

但,「這輩子老天爺給了我一個適合旅行的身體。」他是這樣相信自己的。我想也是。


這些年我在路上遇上很多旅人,他們離家三五年,遊走四方,看似讓人羨慕,可是眼神裡的茫然透露著自己已經失掉方向的事實。但男人不同,即使他也離家十萬八千里,旅行了好久好久,但他有自己的信仰,言談之間透露出他始終走在自己想走的路上,是那麼篤定,就像當他向我走來的時候。

而在他來之前,我跟螞蟻說我非得和這樣的男人旅行一次,說著話的當下我其實不明白為什麼,只是隱約覺得,他就是個我兩年來不斷移動為著遇上的人。

當他問我為什麼喜歡他的時候,我也是這樣回答的。


記得露營前一天,我們一起去爬了一座小山,有階梯,可仍然太陡峭,那上山之路確確實實超出我的極限。老是走的很快的他也不催促我,就停在幾階之上告訴我:我們會一起爬到最頂。心裡埋怨著,可是老自以為可以跟上任何男人腳步的我還是倔強的咬著牙一步一步往上走。

從山頂迴望灕江流域,是讓人難忘的美麗,僅管嘴上還怨著,可的確慶幸他如此堅持要我上來。

看著他不畏懼的在山巔大小不一的岩石上跳上跳下的取景,還有對面山頭一片遼闊地夕陽晚霞,我得費力微笑著才能掩飾自己想哭的衝動:在這個世界上竟然真的有人願意為自己走來,然後帶妳看想要看的風景。多麼難得。


很多人問我,然後呢?其實我也正在問自己。男人曾說過,跑這麼遠為了再見一個女孩一面,很瘋狂,而我始終相信,瘋狂的人生若沒有人陪著一起瘋會是個遺憾。

最後一個晚上,我們手牽手躺在石頭岸上抬頭看滿天星斗,我說這之後我不知道要怎麼回去過去兩年多的生活,他說他希望我可以走向他而不是過去。也許我們真的會像當晚說好的那樣,一起再走一段路,

即使,我們都不能夠確定知道,可以走多遠?然一輩子能和這樣的男人一起旅行一次,只有十天也彌足珍貴。



笑了,更不用提他千山萬水為我而來,我說我終於有一則老了以後可以和孫女炫耀當年的故事,如果我有孫女的話。

然後我要說的是,我並不知道我和他是不是真的會有以後,不過我和他都相信我們都還會再見面,再一次再一次的。



In mid July, for the first time I got a heavy cold during the trip after the half-year drifting. Everyone except me went to National Park for camel-riding , and I was half in asleep in the room. There were a few people moving into the room, and I was too sick to even say Hi.

That was the first sight for the man of me: lying in bed miserably. He said that just for the first glance, he had the feeling that I would be his girl.

For me, it was totally another story. I went to the dining room by myself in the afternoon. It was hard for me just to walk. Not until I entered the bedroom did I balance myself. “How are you?” I didn’t look into his burning eyes until that moment. I was too tired, dumping “not good,” straight to my room and leaving him .

Except that I never forgot his eyes. His eyes fixed at me still, no matter in the night he described his trip in India or Nepal, or he told me that he likes me and would like to meet me again in the next morning. Thus, I believed that we will, truly see each other again even after he left.


I travel alone for many times in two years. I met people, people who promised to meet each other again someday, but we all know that it is tough to realize these promises in the real life, not to mention the words left just for politeness.

He showed up in the most terrible night that I haven’t had in years, and he was the first man saying that he likes me in all my trips. (and there was magic in his words for there were more boys saying that he likes me in the voyage afterward) He kept his promise. He came to me, from Moscow to Shanghai after a month and a half.

I said I would like to go to Guilin before heading home. He said we could go anywhere we want to.


When night fell, we carried our bags, stepping into the forest. I went first. The light behind me lid up the road. I walked on my own shadow without the sight of two steps away. The river was running at my left with crickets, frogs, owls, and cicadas buzzing on the right.

I took each step without hesitation. If I fell, the man behind me will hold me somehow.

It was like... I didn't know my way, but he, who behind me knew, and it was enough. Truly.


There are two bones standing out on his shoulder. I asked him, and he said that he has a pair of wings. I crooked my head, looking at his smiling eyes, emagining the way he might fly, each time when he said so. He admitted that he was born like this afterward, but they do stop the straps of the bag from falling off. I guess it was another of his humor.

Still, he said, "I have a body for traveling in this life." He believes so. So do I.


I met lots of drifters through these years. They left home for several years, wandering, receiving envies from ohters, but the lost looks in their eyes reveal that in fact they've lost their way already. However, this man is differernt. Even though he is millions of thousands of miles away from home, in his voyage for so long, the faith in his talk still tells me that he is still on his way to his dream. He is so sure, the same as he walked toward me.

Before his coming, I told my friends that I have to go on trip with a man like this. I didn't understand then; I just had the feeling that he is the man I drift for.

When he asked for the reason of me liking him, I answered so.


I remember the day before camping, we went for a small mountain hiking. There were stairs though, still it was too steep for me, far beyond me limitation. He didn't push me, although he always walks so fast. He just stopped at a few stairs above, telling me, "We will go to the top, together." I murmured to myself, but my pride made me took my steps to catch him.

it was a spectacular beauty. Looking down on the river from the top of the mountain is unforgetable. I was still complaining, but I was gald that he insisted me going up here.

Watching him moving around on the rocks without fear, with the mafnificent senery behind, I had to smile hard to stop myself from bursting into tears. There IS someone who is willing to come to me, and bring me the sight I yearn so much. How luck I am.


A lot of people asked me, "what about then?" I am asking it, too. He said it is crazy to travel such a long way just to see this girl again. I somehow still believe that it will be a regret if there was no one being crazy with you, too.

We laid on the ground, looking at the sky full of shining stars, with my hand in his. I said I wouldn't know how to go back to my life like the way I've been doing two years ago. He told me that he hopes I can walk toward him, in stead of the past. Maybe we will go with each other for some time, just like we said that night.

Even though both of us cannot be sure how far we can go, it is still beautiful enough for me to travel with a man like this for once in my life.

Not to mention he came to me, over thousands of millions of miles. I say I finally have a story to tell my granddaughter, if, I have a granddaughter.

And once again, I don't know if there is a future of us, but we both believe that we will meet again, again and again.


2009.09.25,堂妹翻譯成英文給他看,他說很浪漫。

留言

Louise寫道…
跟這樣的人一起旅行是一種幸福...
我相信當下的感動會永遠在你心中...
lens寫道…
有趣的事情!我喜歡!

這個網誌中的熱門文章

異國婚姻實戰篇之居留申請最後一哩路。

在本系列第一篇曾經提到為外籍配偶申請台灣居留證的必要文件,其中一樣是停留簽證/居留簽證/工作簽證。這一項,讓我見識了台灣政府各部門回應不一致的莫名其妙。

首先,我覺得這規定對於一個能夠免簽入境的外籍人士來說,就是個陷阱,一個人若已經能夠免簽入境三個月,為什麼還會想到要去辦理一張效期只有兩個月的停留簽證呢?原以為這點又是我們自己鬼遮眼漏看,但後來我又仔細研究一下各簽證規定,才發現事情好像無可避免走到我們最後走的那一步。

總之又是一個娓娓道來的故事,怨氣十足。


※外籍配偶申請停留簽證

當我在網站上發現免簽入境不能直接轉成外僑居留證後,依舊不死心的打電話問移民署,告知我們的情形,如果當初在國外沒有辦理居留簽證或停留簽證,在台灣又沒有工作簽證,只好出境再辦一張停留簽證。

喂喂喂,就是為了不要讓Zac像以前一樣三個月搭一次飛機,所以才要儘早結婚拿居留證啊!結果現在還是要跑國外,煩不煩啊?

移民署說,沒關係,免簽證的人只要找到工作就可以直接換發工作簽證,接著就可以申請以依親之名原地再換成居留證。嗯,所以這就是個「如果你有繳稅給中華民國政府他們就讓你方便到底」的概念?

於是Zac就去問合作的出版社願不願意給他工作簽證,得到一個要簽一年賣身契才能拿到的答案,雖然出版社開出五萬五的薪水,也可以立馬得到健保,但考慮再三後,自由自在慣了的我們還是放棄這條路徑,畢竟他正常工作三週就能賺到約莫這個價錢的薪水,剩一個星期進可攻退可守,何苦來哉到出版社做牛做馬?

既然沒有工作簽證,移民署告訴我,我們需要一張居留簽證或停留簽證。

這裡釋疑一下:居留簽證是指外籍人士計劃來台超過180天辦的,所以在加拿大時Zac是無法事先辦這張簽證的,因為他不是要來台求學也不是要工作更不是弘法,而當時我們未婚,所以他也不能依親。不過這張簽證適合已經在國外結婚打算回台灣生活的同學們,入台之前,千萬記得要先到當地的台灣辦事處辦這張簽證喔!

那停留簽證呢?停留簽證則是要給預計來台60天內的人辦理的,可以用依親或是觀光的名義辦理,前者我們又不行,因為未婚,後者根本毫無道理,因為加拿大人可以免簽觀光三個月,外館幹嘛發一張兩個月的給你?如果你說因為要結婚,外館又會說這和入境事實不符合。

所以現在想來,當初根本不可能在加拿大弄到一張簽證貼紙啊!

邊問移民署,我也查外交部網站,結果查到:英國籍和加拿大籍免簽入境者,若因為種種原因…

異國婚姻實戰篇之單身證明。

決定結婚後的下一步就是台灣居留證+加拿大護照,但這個到那個之間,是一條漫漫長路。前情提要是,為了讓Zac能以最快速度拿到居留證,所以我們隨隨便便的就決定二月初去登記。
這麼說來,外國人要在台灣和台灣人登記結婚,其實很簡單囉?

孩子別傻了,哪有這種事情!就說這是一條漫漫長路啊!


※單身證明

不過,咳咳,不得不說在這個環節上,我終於體會到嫁加拿大人的好運啊!絕對不是因為加拿大老公是最棒的。怎麼說呢?請聽我娓娓道來。

人還在加拿大時,查了戶政事務所網站,除了身分證、戶口名簿、六個月內大頭照、印章、兩枚證人外,若其中一人為外籍人士,則需要再準備:

1. 護照

2. 使用中文姓名聲明書(文件若於國外製成需經我駐外館處驗證)

3. 在國內結婚者須另附經我駐外館處驗證之單身證明(原文本暨中譯本)

請把紅線劃在「單身證明」上。(中文姓名聲明書可以直接在戶政事務所索取。)

就是這個單身證明,讓每個(非透過中介)擁有外籍配偶的台灣另一伴們人仰馬翻,部落格分享一片幹聲連連,血淚史不忍卒睹。所以我嚴正以待,尤其是加拿大這種各省自掃門前雪的國家,問誰也沒個準。

沒想到,瀏覽三篇網誌分享後,我發現只要去加拿大在台辦事處辦裡就可以。什麼?就這麼簡單嗎?這就是異國戀要結婚的缺點之一,有時候當事情太過簡單時,又會來懷疑是不是有詐。

不過,點開加拿大駐台北貿易辦事處的網頁,在領事服務這欄我找到以下說明:

想在台結婚之加籍公民,須在加拿大駐台北貿易辦事處領事人員面前,簽一份單身宣誓書。 基本上,這是一份申請人的宣誓聲明,表示其為單身或已離婚,且有資格在台結婚。 因宣誓書本身屬法律文件,故申請人須親臨本處完成作業。

額手稱慶,於是Zac回台灣後,我們就趕緊去辦理這張單身證明。真的很容易,到了辦事處,抽號碼牌,到一位領事人員面前,填寫申請書,聲明自己單身,當著她的面簽名,就完成了。

這位領事是個中年大媽,很親切地用中英文解釋拿到證明後的結婚流程,她特別指出加拿大政府承認台灣的婚姻,所以我們登記當天要順便申請英文證明,幸運的是加拿大政府不會無聊到要小百姓玩台灣認證來認證去的遊戲,也就是說戶政事務所發的英文版結婚證明,就可以直接作為移民申請的關係證明。

繳了1400元以後,我們拿到單身證明了,有沒有很簡單?

當然,事情還沒完,萬惡的駐外館處驗證又來了!但因為是加拿大駐台灣的單位,所以就要拿到所有外館的老大外…

異國婚姻實戰篇之加拿大良民證。

拖了很久很久,終於心不甘情不願的要來寫這段根本沒有人拿槍逼妳寫的異國婚姻不浪漫之實戰過程。結婚和結婚喜宴真的是兩碼子事情,後者有個喜字果然歡天喜地,前者卻是一連串靠北的過程,雖然在一般認知裡,結婚不是兩個人去簽個名就成立了嗎?但異國婚姻所需完成的行政程序,會讓本來很簡單的事情變得很曲折。



第一回合,加拿大人在台灣結婚和申請居留。

在多倫多決定會在屏東舉行婚禮後,我在聖誕節隔天立馬殺回台灣陪娘過生日,Zac則多待上20天,處理一些必要處理的事情,例如換本新護照什麼的。兩個人的打算是選個最起碼在農民曆上寫宜嫁娶的日子登記(喜宴則隨便挑個無關嫁聚吉凶的星期六),越快越好,這樣Zac才不至於還得在四月底婚禮前被迫跑趟香港延長免簽證。
是的,這幾年Zac就是用這種三個月去香港一次的方式在台灣生活,理由容後敘述。

人還在加拿大時,我們簡單查了一下,申請居留證需要:

1) 結婚證書/戶口名簿,總之就是證明夫妻關係的文件,這需要等回台灣結婚先;

2) 加拿大無犯罪證明,需要在加拿大辦理;

3) 健康檢查證明,回台灣檢查就好了;

4) 停留簽證,不知道哪來的錯覺,我們一致以為加拿大人在台灣只要結婚了就可以直接申請居留證,無需回國重新辦理還啥的,所以直接忽視。

※加拿大良民證

想要娶寶島姑娘,首先要證明你是個好人!要想取得安穩留在台灣的門票,這一步一定要在加拿大先辦好,不然一旦離開加拿大就是錢錢錢。
申請加拿大無犯罪證明(俗稱的良民證)好像挺簡單的,網路上的說法百百款,但Zac發現了一個叫做Red Seal Notary的機構,網頁上寫全加拿大有100多個點,Zac就是去了該機構,說要申請無犯罪記錄,當場直接壓電子指紋,付55元加幣,該機構直接把指紋檔案傳送到RCMP,約莫兩星期就收到附有指紋的證明啦。
沒想到這麼簡單!
But,人生往往就是有個But,沒想到這麼簡單的事情也會出差錯囧。
為求慎重,Zac打了電話問多倫多台灣辦事處,需不需要去辦事處讓他們檢查一下這張證明能不能用,結果對方問有沒有指紋?有耶!有就好,掛了電話後我們就傻傻帶回台灣了。

所以我們沒有驗證!
等到回台灣再仔細的看一次網站,所有外國文件都需要當地外館驗證!當初是鬼遮眼嗎?怎麼會漏看這麼重要的事情?
但多倫多辦事處也很不討喜啊,都打電話問你文件應該長怎樣,幹嘛不溫馨提醒需要帶證明到辦事處驗證才能用啊!不過最莫名的還是…